RUGUOYAOYONGYIZHONGMIANLIAOLAIDAIBIAONANXINGDEHUA,NEIMEYIDINGSHI“PIGE”。
GENQITAMIANLIAOBUTONG,PIGESHIYIZHONGNONGYUERSHENSUIDEMIANLIAO,FANSHINENGYONGLAIMIAOSHUNANXINGTEZHENGDEXINGRONGCI,FANGZAIPIGESHENSHANG,DOUMEIWENTI,ZHURUYANGGANG、YINGLANG、PIXINGDENGDENGWOMENYIJINGTINGDAOERLANDECIYU。
JIANDANDIAN,PIGEZUINENGGOUDAIBIAONANXINGMEILIDEYIDIANJIUSHI XINGGANERWUWEI,SHINANRENROUQINGYUJIANYIDEJIEHETI。
MALILIAN·MENGLUJIUCENGSHUOGUO:“ZUIXINGDENANRENWEI,SHISHENSHANGZHISHAOCHUANLESANNIANDEPIJIAKEDEPIGEWEI”。
MEICUO,ZHUANYANJIANYOUYINGLAILEQIUDONG,YOUDAOLE“CHUANPI”DEHAOJIJIE。
SHUODAOPIGEDANPIN,CHULEPIXIEZHIWAI,JIUDANGSHUGEZHONGMENGLUKOUZHONGGEZHONGLIJIUMIXINDEPIJIAKEZUISHENRURENXIN。
KEDUIYUPIJIAKE,WOMENZHENDETAISHUXILE,MEINIANQIUDONGDOUYAONACHULAISHUOHAOJICI,ZUIJUDAIBIAOXINGDE Double Rider Jacket XIECAILALIANDEQISHIJIAKE,GENGSHIGUANGSHOUHUANYING。
SUOYI,ZAIFANCHAOLENGFAN,YEMEIDUODAYISI。
JIUZAIDAJIAHAIBAMUGUANGJUJIZAIDEJINGDIANKUANSHENSHANGZHISHI,YEJIEDUIPIGEZHEIZHONGMIANLIAODEYANYI,BIANDEGENGJIAXINXIANDUOYANGLEQILAI,CHENGXIANCHUQUANXINDEQUSHIFANGXIANG。
JIARUONIBUXIANGSHANGSHENRENSHOUYIJIANDEQISHIJIAKE,BIMIANBEIZHUANGSHANDEGANGA,NEIMEXIANGXINJINTIANZHEIQINEIRONGYENENGJINIGENGDUODE“CHUANPI”LINGGAN。
不再“痞性”的皮革
YEXUSHIYINWEIPIGECAIZHISHIRENLEISHIYONGDEZUIZAODEYIZHONGMIANLIAO,GUOQUBUJINSHIPUTONGREN,JIULIANGEDAPINPAI、SHEJISHIDUIPIGEDELIJIEYUNYONGDOUSHIFENGUDING,YOUQISHINENGGOUCHUANZHESHANGSHENDEDANPIN。
ZHEIYEGENMIANLIAOBENSHENDETEXINGYOUGUAN,PIGEYONGLAICAIJIANZHIYI,BUTAIFANGBIANJINXINGXIJIESHANGDE“XIUXIUBUBU”。
JINERYEZAOJIULEPIGEDESHEJILUJING,YIJISHEJIWAIXINGDOUBIJIAODANYI,CHULENVSHIDEPIQUN,NANRENMENZUISHUXIJIUSHIWANNIANBUBIANDEPIJIAKE。
ZHEIYANGDEQINGKUANGZHIDAOJINLIANGNIANDEJIJIZHONG,CAIYOULEMINGXIANDEGAIBIAN,YOUQISHINANZHUANGDE 2020 CHUNXIAXILIE,GENGSHIRANG PIZHICHENSHANDOURANCHENGWEILECHAOLIUXINCHONG。
▲ Louis Vuitton 2020 CHUNXIAXILIE
▲ Jil Sander 2020 CHUNXIAXILIE
“PIZHICHENSHANSHIZUIJINDEFAMINGMA?”
DANGRANBUSHI,YEZIGERENYINXIANGBIJIAOSHENKEDESHI,Hedi Slimane HAIZAI Dior ZHICHU,Dior Homme JIUYOUGUOBUSHAODEXIANGGUANDANPIN,YIRUJIWANGDIXIAOSHOUYAOGUN。
NEIGESHIHOU,DUOSHURENMENDUIPIGECHENSHANDERENSHI,HAITINGLIUZAILINGLEIDEYINXIANG,JUEDEFEICHANGGUAIYI,YEJIUMEIYOUTAIDUODIXUANZESHANGSHEN,CIHOUBIANSHIHENZHANGYIDUANSHIJIANDENIJI。
ERZI 2018 CHUNXIAJIDUKAISHI,YIBUFENPINPAIWEIPIZHICHENSHANGENGHUANLEQUANXINDEMIANMAO,ZAIJINGYOUHOULAIDE 19 CHUNXIA、19 QIUDONGYIJI 2020CHUNXIADEZHONGDUOPINPAIGAIJIN,ZUIZHONGYEZAOJIULETADEHUICHUN,XIUCHANGNEIWAIBINGBUSHAOJIAN。
▲ Cerruti 1881 2018 CHUNXIAXILIE
▲ Hermès 2019 QIUDONGXILIE
YUYIWANGYOUHENDADEBUTONG,ZHONGDENGXIUCHANGDEPICHENSHANZAIBANXINGSHANGMEIYOUNEIMEZHAISHENSHUFU,JIBENSHANGGENPUTONGDECHENSHANWUYI,SHENZHISHIBIANDE Oversize LEQILAI,TIEHESHIXIADEKUANSONGCHAOLIU。
XIANGDUILAISHUO,GERENGENGXIHUANDANGXIADEPICHENSHANFENGGE,YETUIJIANDAJIAZAIXIANGYAO“CHUANPI”DESHIHOU,BUSHIWEIZAIQISHIJIAKEZHIWAIDEYIGEXUANZE。
YINWEIHUANFACHUKUANSONGXINCHAODEFENGGE,TAMEIYOUTAIDUODEXIANFENGYAOGUNTEZHENG,ZHEIYEDADAJIANGDILESHANGSHENNANDU,NIZENMECHUANPUTONGCHENSHAN,JIUKEYIZENMECHUANTA。
DANTONGSHI,DUIBIQITAMIANLIAOCHENSHANERYAN,PICHENSHANBUJINZAIZHUANLIANGZHIJIGENGJIABAONUAN。
ZHIGANXIANZHU,XIANTIAOGANTUCHU,GEDIAOGENGJIAYINGZHIQUESHIPUTONGCHENSHANSUOBUJUBEIDEYOUSHI,NIZHIXUYAOJIASHANGYITIAOPINGZHENGYOUYADEKUKUANLAIRUOHUAYIXIA“GONGJIXING”JIKE。
YOUHUOZHESHIKEYISHANGSHENNIUZIKUDAPEI,ZHUANWEIGENGJIACUGUANGBAOMANDIDEFENGGEBIAOXIAN。
RUGUONIHAISHIJIESHOUBULEPICHENSHANTAITIESHENDEHUA,ZHEILIYEKEYIZAILIMIANCHUANSHANGNEIDA,RUTXU、GAOLINGDENGDENG,BATADANGZUOSHIGENGJIAQINGSONGDIANPIGEWAITAOLAICHUAN。
DUIBIYUZHENGTONGDEJICHE、QISHIJIAKELAISHUO,“PICHENSHANWAICHUAN”MEIYOUQIANGLIEDEPANNIFENGGE,ERSHIYAOQINGSONGSUIHEXUDUO。
SHUODAO PIGEWAITAO,ZHEIJINIANLAITAYEBUDUANDIZAIYANBIAN,YESHICHENGXIANCHU YUFAKUANSONG、JIANJIEDEQUSHI,YUCHUANTONGDEDouble Rider Jacket、Racer Jacket XINGCHENGLIANGZHONGBUTONGDEFENGGE。
DAJIAYINXIANGZHONGSHUXIDE Double Rider Jacket HE Racer Jacket ZHEIXIEJINGDIANKUAN,WUYIBUSHIDUANKUANSHOUSUODESHENXING,XIJIESHANGHUOJIARUGEZHONGLALIAN、MAODING,LINGZIWEILIANGFANLINGHEXIAOLILING,MUDESHIWEILEGENGHAODIFANGFENG。
▲ ZUO:Double Rider Jacket、YOU:Racer Jacket
ERXIANZAIDEPIGEWAITAOGENGDUOSHICONGSHUSHIHAOCHUANDEMUDECHUFA,YEGENCHENSHANYIYANG,BIANDEKUANSONGKUOXING,TICHULEDUOYUDELALIANJIEGOU,HEMAODINGDENGZHEIXIEYAOGUNFENGGEXIJIE,DUOYONGNIUKOUDAITI,LINGZIYEDUOSHICHENSHANNEIBANDEBIAOZHUNFANLING,ZHENGTIJIEGOUKANSHANGQUYAOGENGJIAJIANJIEMINGLE。
▲ MSGM 2019 QIUDONGXILIE
▲ Hermès 2019 QIUDONGXILIE
QIZHONGHAIYOUYIGEZUIZHONGYAODE,GONGZHUANG(JUNZHUANG)HUA YESHIMUQIANPIGEWAITAOZUIWEIMINGXIANDEQUSHITEDIANZHIYI。
CHUXIANLEYUELAIYUEDUODE,NENGGOUTIXIANZHEJUNGONGZHUANGQINGHUAIDEFANGAIDAKOUDAI,YIJIJIANDAI、SHUDAIDENGXIJIESHEJI,TUIDAOLEWOMENYINXIANGZHONG“PIJIAKE”DEDIANXINGMOYANG,JINIDEZHIGUANGANJUEGENGXIANG“ZHEISHIYONGPIGEDAZAODEGONG(JUN)ZHUANGJIAKE”,RONGHEPIGEMIANLIAODEJINGZHICHENGDUYUGONGZHUANGBANXINGSHEJIDEYINGLANGQIZHI。
▲ Fendi 2020 CHUNXIAXILIE
▲ Sies Marjan 2020 CHUNXIAXILIE
NEIMEJIUCHUANPIJIAKELAISHUO,NIHUIXUANZECHUANTONGJICHEPIJIAKE,HAISHIYANHUAGUOHOUDE?
TANBAIJIANG,ZHEILIANGZHONGKUANSHIDOUGEYOUGEDEYOUSHI,JINGDIANDE Double Rider Jacket HE Racer Jacket YOUYUSHIDUANKUANXINGSHI,SUOYIGENGNENGXIANTUIZHANG,PIXINGZUGOU,YOURUYIGEFENGQINGLANGZI。
YUZHIXIANGFANDESHIJIANJIEHUA、KUANSONGHUA、GONGZHUANGHUAGUOHOUDEPIJIAKE,TAMEIYOUTAIDUODEHUAIPIXINGGE,FEICHANGZHIBAI,QUEYAOYONGLANPIAOYIBUSHAO,GENGXIANGSHIYIGEXINXINGDESHIMAONANXING。
ZUIHOUSHIPIDAYI。
QISHISHUODAOPIDAYI,BUSHAORENDOUSHIFENKANGJU,YINWEIYIZHIYILAIYOUGUANYUTADELEJIE,DOUSHI“ZUOBIANHUALONG,YOUBIANHUACAIHONG”DETUWEIYINXIANG。
BUGUO,DANGNIKANDAOZUIJINJIJIDESHEJIZHIHOU,XIANGXINYEDUITAYOUGAITOUHUANMIANDEDIANFURENSHI。
YIROURUANDEPIZHIDAZAO,KUANSHIJIANCAISHANGYUFAKUANSONGXIANZHANG,ZHIDISHUNHUAQUEWUGUOYUMINGXIANDEPIGEGUANGZE,JIANGDIJIAYUNANDU,YETUNQULETUWEIDEJISHIGAN。
GENPUTONGDENILIAODAYIHEMIANZHIFENGYIXIANGBI,JINGUANPIDAYI(FENGYI)GENGJIAHOUZHONG,CHUANQILAIBUQINGSONG,DANQIXINIBAOMANDEZHIGAN,SHITAMENSUOBUNENGJIDE。
CONGSHANGMIANKEYIKANDAO,PIGEDANPINCONGGUOQUDEDANYIGUDING,DAORUJINBIANDEJINTIECHAOLIU,XIANXIANCHUDUOYANGHUADESHENGDONGFENGGE,ZIRANYEKEYIJIWOMENGENGDUODEXUANZE。
DANBUGUANRUHEDOUHAO,BUBIANDESHI,PIGESHIZHONGDOUNENGGOUGAIKUONANXINGWANZHENGLITIDEYIMIAN,BINGJIANGQIMEILIQUANBUJIBIAOXIANCHULAI,TASHENCHENDEZHIGAN,SHINIDEXINGXIANGGENGJIASHENSUI,GENGNENGRANGNICHENGWEIYIGEBUBEIQINGYIKANTOUDENANREN。